Crossing the Andes to Bolivia – Day three

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The sun about to rise over the salt flats…… 

This day for me was both wonderful and horrible. The salt flats were incredible, but I felt awful. I’d been up every 20 minutes overnight with diarrhoea, plus vomiting, and was shaking, cold and miserable. If Lauren hadn’t been so excited about the salt flats – and if she hadn’t spent the last 2 days making plans for various pictures she wanted to take with her new-found Irish friends – I might have insisted on staying in bed/the bathroom. As it was, I gritted my teeth, and did my best. This unfortunately included sullying the salt flats at times. There aren’t exactly a multitude of bathrooms out there. Hopefully pachamama  (mother earth) will understand.

The Irish guys and Katerina were wonderful – most importantly taking Lauren to each of the sites when I couldn’t get out of the car and keeping her entertained and happy, but also feeding me Imodium, carrying my bag, bringing me coke when I couldn’t make lunch, and just generally making it as easy as possible for me. Some of the photos in this post were taken by them and shared, so thanks guys 😊.

Anyway, we started off heading to an area of the salt flats that was still wet from the recently ended-rainy season. This created a spectacular mirror effect, and we watched the sun rise here. Even in my state, I could enjoy the majesty of this view.

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The sun finally rises over the salt flats……
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Keeping her feet dry while watching the sunrise. 
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The whole team enjoying the sunrise….. well worth the early start.
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One of the nearby hills reflected in the flats. 

After that we headed to an ‘island’ (the salt flats are simply a vast dried up sea) that was covered in cactuses (I know, I know, but ‘cacti’ is so old fashioned). Lauren and the others went for a hike around the island, while I made regular use of their facilities, and sipped on coca tea. Coca tea is made from the leaves of the coca plant, better known for its purified state, cocaine, but in leaf form is a mild painkiller and locals swear by it for all sorts of aches and pains, and for altitude sickness.

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Cactuses/Cacti…. whatever you call them, they are spectacular. 

Everyone else had breakfast, then it was the moment we’d all been waiting for. Finding a stretch of the salt flats so flat that you could take ‘perspective photos’ when the lack of any differentiation in the background means you can take photos of people/objects at different distances that look like they are close together. The guys had been planning this for ages, and Lauren had some pretty specific requests. Paul was clearly an expert, having brought his dinosaurs along and knowing just how to do it. I participated in a couple (Lauren particularly wanted to be a giant stepping on my head…..) then left them to it. As you can see, some were more successful than others, but they all had a lot of fun.

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A tiny Lauren on my hand…….
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No ‘perspective’ here, just full of energy and having fun……
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Lauren about to stomp on my head……. 
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Seb eating a tiny Lauren….. 
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Escaping some fearsome beasts….
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The whole team……

Next we headed off across the salt flats to a place where flags from all around the world have been placed. Katerina had brought a Czech Republic flag (so organized!).

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Think the Irish lads might have found the Irish flag….. 

After this, my memory is a bit vague – the Imodium was slowly taking effect but I spent much of the time dozing in the car, worrying about when the next bathroom stop would be, clutching a plastic bag in case I threw up. I think we headed for lunch then, where I stayed outside in the car and sipped on coca cola, supposed to be good for stomach upsets, but I promptly lost it again, inelegantly out the car door ☹.

The final stop of the day (by this point I was simply counting the minutes until I could find a hotel, our pre-booked overnight bus to La Paz out of the question) was a train ‘graveyard’. It was quite a melancholy place in a way, rusting hulks of engines that used to take minerals from Bolivia through the Andes to the Pacific. The guys and Lauren had great fun clambering about on the trains and I was once again grateful to them for including her in everything.

Eventually we were dropped off at the office of the agency, where I sat inside shivering while everyone else dealt with my stuff. We checked into a hotel directly opposite, on the basis it had rooms with private bathrooms and was staggering distance – Sebastian, Connor, Guy and Katerina all came over to reception, carrying various bits of our luggage, to make sure we were checked in and I was settled. What a nice bunch of people. Katerina, who was staying in Uyuni too, even came round the following day and took Lauren for lunch and played games with her while I led in bed trying to recover.

Thanks for everything guys, and safe travels 🙂

P.s. photos just don’t do justice to the scenery around here, so I put together a 6 minute video with some of my favourite video clips from the few days ….   apologies for all the heavy breathing, I was usually out of breath!!!

watch here if interested: 

 

Day Two – Crossing from Chile to Bolivia

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One of the strange rock formations we saw on day 2.

Day two of our crossing from Chile to Bolivia was just as spectacular as day one, with strange desert rock formations, more beautiful lakes, some weird rabbit-type creatures with long tails, a beautiful green valley as we emerged into inhabited areas, and the start of the famous salt flats that day three would be all about.

The day started off bright and early, with pancakes and tea. I was feeling fine, despite the altitude, although had woken in the middle of the night convinced I couldn’t breathe and on the verge of a panic attack. Only knowing Lauren was in the bed beside me got me to focus enough to breathe deeply and calmly, working every bit of oxygen I could out of the air. By morning, I was coping well enough, although still pathetically breathless after any exertion. Lauren of course was coping fabulously, generally running around outside with the llamas. Some people had headaches but paracetamol seemed to do the trick.

We set off driving along what passed for tracks, sometimes across broad empty plains, other times through deep canyons, and even at one point along a riverbed. First stop was at a huge collection of rocks, thrown from a volcano at some point in the past and eroded by the wind into weird shapes.

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Next we found ourselves driving through a canyon with steep sides, and some rather unstable-looking boulders we could just imagine falling at any moment, as some obviously had in the past as the track wound round big chunks of rock. It was worth it though to see the weird rabbit-like creatures who live on the rocks….

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Strange creatures, look like rabbits with really long curly tails… can’t remember their name… 
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Despite the sun, that’s ice on the ground! 

We reached another beautiful lake, filled with flamingos, with an ‘ecolodge’ that had pay toilets. Its the first time I’ve been to a toilet where half of the bowl is restricted to ‘number ones’ and the other half to ‘number twos’. Not only that, but the ladies had a window, and the (male) attendant came and peered through it while I was on the loo, presumably checking I was aiming accurately enough….. it was a bit odd, but hey, you take any chance for a wee out here, there aren’t many bushes!

Lunch was by another beautiful lake…..

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One of the many mineral-filled lakes…. 
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Loving the mirror effect….
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Flamingos…..
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Lauren with her new best friends….they were so brilliant with her. 

Eventually we reached ‘civilization’ with a few scattered dusty villages, and enjoyed about ten minutes of an actual road before another diversion, this time to clamber on yet more rock formations. Lauren and Connor found a ‘fortress’ and were quite happy up there until it was raided by the others…. cue lots of shrieking and squealing (and that was just the boys!).

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Lauren and Connor in their fortress.

After that, Paul promised us beer, although it seemed an awfully long time coming – first we drove up a valley that was actually green due to a river running through it, and we went for a walk through the waterlogged fields amidst a herd of llama.

20180423_151748.jpgWe drove through a lovely green valley full of llamas, and went for a walk among them….

Once back in the car we came across one of the other vehicles, that had broken down. Apparently, the drive shaft had ‘popped out’ and was ‘popped back in’ using a stake one of the drivers wrenched out of a villager’s field and a rock.

The day ended with beers (coca beer, cactus beer…) at a local shack before heading to the salt hotel where we would have dinner and spend the night in the relative luxury of private rooms (and bathrooms!).

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Sun setting as we head for the Salt hotel for the night….. 
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Our trusty steed….
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The beds, part of the walls and the bedside table are all made of salt…..

By 9pm we were both in bed, having had warm showers, as we would be up at 5am for a 5.30am departure to the salt flats. However, I needn’t have worried about getting up in time, as I got about one hours sleep all night, due to an explosive reaction to what I can only imagine was some bacteria on some of the food at dinner, or possibly something I picked up on my hands, despite regular applications of antibacterial gel.

Within a couple of hours I was vomiting profusely, and had terrible diarrhoea, and I spent most of the night in the absolutely freezing bathroom. Lauren, thankfully, slept on regardless.

Crossing the Andes to Bolivia – Day One

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I am happy to admit I was somewhat nervous about this trip. Those of you who know me personally will be well aware I like to be in control, and this time I was putting my and my daughter’s well-being into the hands of a travel agency to get us across some very remote territory with extreme conditions. I had done as much research as I could and thought I’d chosen a decent agency, but still, given my dodgy lungs and previous problems with altitude (and we would be going far higher) and given I had Lauren along, I was anxious it go well.

The agency assured me that the driver was experienced, the jeep had proper seatbelts (I was still carting Lauren’s booster seat around), and they would carry oxygen in case of altitude sickness.

We were picked up at 0630 by a minibus that took us and a number of other people to the border with Bolivia, where we would transfer to the 4 by 4’s required for Bolivia. We climbed and climbed for around 45 minutes, in the pre-dawn darkness, everyone a bit quiet until we reached the small building that housed Chilean immigration.

The contrast between two countries can hardly be greater than when crossing from Chile to Bolivia. On the Chilean side, decent tarmacked road, polite immigration officials, clean toilets, even a ping pong table that some of the members of our group made use of, challenging the immigration officers to a game.

Then, a few Km later on, a dirt track and a stone hut with brusque Bolivian border guards.

We had breakfast in the searing cold wind – we were high, the sun was hiding behind a cloud, someone said it was below freezing. As far as the eye could see was just flat brown earth and snow-capped mountains. It couldn’t have looked less appealing. What had we signed up for?

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Not much out there……. 

It turned out that there were three vehicles that would be travelling roughly together, which was reassuring. We had all heard horror stories of breakdowns on the rough terrain. We were fortunately assigned to a jeep driven by Paul, an experienced and careful driver who seemed to be the most responsible of the three.

We were also lucky in our fellow travelers – after all, we would spend three whole days with these people, at close quarters, sharing the car, a bedroom and all meals. We were joined by a trio of mid 20s Dublin lads, Sebastian, Connor and Guy, much to Lauren’s delight, as half the time she thinks she’s Irish, and a Czech woman, Katerina.  I was by far the oldest of the group, and Lauren by far the youngest.

The day passed in a blur of mountains, stunning lakes, thermal springs and geysers. Nature at its harshest. Arsenic in the ground, sulphur from the geysers, salt in the water, intense heat and cold at different times, and of course the ever present reminder of the altitude. Tracks varied from rough to non-existent, we saw the odd fox and vicuna (a wild deer related to the guanaco we’d seen in Argentina), a few birds and not much else in terms of wildlife.

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The real secret behind Blackburn Rovers’ promotion – this is a site where people make cairns to worship pachamama or mother earth….. the guys and Lauren made one, with Roar as an offering (he didn’t stay behind though). 

 

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Then, in the middle of nowhere, some volcanic hot springs, with filthy changing rooms and zero health and safety. Felt so good though, although ten  minutes was enough given the altitude. 

 

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Bubbling, sulphic mud ponds, truly evil. 
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We were told the mud comes out at 200 degrees C. No health and safety, you could just wander around at will. 
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Evil smelling place but fascinating. 

We ended with a wonderful (if rather breathless), walk around laguna colorada, possibly my favourite of the whole day, as it was pink, full of flamingos, and just beautiful.

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Lauren was by now in full hero-worship mode and firm friends with the Irish lads. When I tried to intervene (not all mid-20’s lads want a 9 year old girl tagging along) I was firmly told that she was now ‘one of their crew’ so left well alone.

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Three Irish musketeers and an eager D’Artagnan… deep in conversation as I breathlessly bring up the rear. 

The evening saw us arriving at a very basic lodge – electricity for a couple of hours in the evening, no heating (we were at 4,600 metres), no showers, and 2 shared toilets without paper or soap. For Lauren, at least, none of this mattered, as she made firm friends with this filthy orphaned Llama, which at least twice had to be ushered from the kitchen…. where our dinner was being prepared…

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Orphaned baby llama at our lodge in the mountains. 

 

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Another Llama….. 
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And another….. we liked the llamas. 

All 6 of us shared the same room. The food was basic – boiled chicken, salad, and smash (reconstituted dehydrated potato). Lauren taught everyone how to play Uno, and an Irish guy from another group brought out a guitar and entertained us with songs.

By just after 9 everyone headed off to bed, many feeling some effect of the altitude and the grueling but amazing day.